When we chose to continue our adventure to Australia, we knew that this country would only be a stopover and that we wouldn't have time to fully appreciate its delights. 

Our objective was to reach Darwin, in the very north of the island, and to look for a sailboat heading to Indonesia. We also chose to land in Sydney, the closest city to New Zealand, in order to reduce the carbon footprint of our flight. We had to connect these two cities, more than 4,700 road kilometres apart, as quickly as possible, before the cyclone season made our search for a boat more difficult.

‍

After 9 days hitchhiking, including 6 full days on the road, we arrived in Darwin. 9 exhausting days, but above all rich in encounters and discoveries. Our 16 drivers (including two truck drivers!) shared their daily lives with us, informed us about the political situation in Australia and the places to visit, and taught us local expressions and music. In the end, even if we didn't take the time to visit this immense country, hitchhiking gave us a unique immersion in its culture.

‍

‍

We were particularly struck by the discussions we had with our drivers about the Aboriginal Australians.

Europeans first arrived in Australia in 1788, but Aboriginals and Torres Strait Islanders have only been recognised as Australian citizens since 1967. We sensed during our conversations that European colonisation and the rights of Aboriginal peoples remain controversial subjects, as evidenced by the crucial referendum that took place during our stay. The proposal was to recognise the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples as the original inhabitants of the island, but also to create an advisory council that could give its opinion on any legislation affecting these peoples. Australians voted against this project, with 60% of the vote...

‍

‍

In Darwin, we stayed for over a month, visiting marinas, harassing sailing Facebook groups, checking out ferries, weather conditions and possible routes to Western Indonesia. We stayed there thanks to HelpX, which allows you to stay with local people in exchange for a few hours' work a day. We recommend this as a way of immersing yourself in the local culture and meeting new people!

What's for dinner?

‍

The food that made the biggest impression on us in Australia originates from Malaysia, and is called Laksa! In Darwin, a city where immigration from South-East Asia is very high, culinary diversity is fully expressed in the restaurants and markets. When we arrived, it was the Darwin International Laksa Festival: an annual festival in honour of this coconut milk and noodle soup. It can be found in many of the city's restaurants, and everyone is invited to take part and join the Laksa League, tasting and scoring the laksas to earn points. We loved the concept!

But more importantly, the Laksa is delicious. We can't wait to taste it in Malaysia.

‍

(Be careful to get a "vegetarian/vegan laksa", and not just a "vegetables laksa", as prawn paste is often used in the recipe).

‍

An unforgettable place

‍

Mount Isa

‍

If this little town left an impression on us, it wasn't for its beauty, or for the wonderful people we met there. 

Mount Isa was the only stop in the desert on our hitchhiking adventure. It was the manager of the town's McDonalds who took us there from Townsville, a 10-hour drive away. We thought we'd stay the night and leave the next day, still hitchhiking. 

‍

At 8.30am, we were on the road armed with our best thumbs up. Beginner's mistake! It's already over 35°C, and there's not a tree to shelter under. The only cars passing us were those of the workers going back and forth between the mine and the transport centre. We waited in the heat for several hours, until our skin burned and our heads started to spin. No car had stopped, not even to take us a few kilometres away! We turned back at the motel, a little demoralised but ready to try our luck again the next day! 

At 6am, we're back at the side of the road, signposted to Darwin in hand. We waited several more hours, without success. Change of strategy: we head for the truckers' rest area, thanks to a kind miner. The first driver we asked went to Katherine, just an hour from Darwin, and agreed to take us! We set off for a 13 and a half hour drive.

‍

The moral of the story is that we made the wrong decision from the outset to head north from Sydney. Crossing the Australian desert from the south, at Adelaide, would have been more judicious, as the road is shorter and busier. We were very lucky to find someone heading towards Katherine, as Mount Isa is a mining town with very few tourists and is very isolated.

‍

‍

A lovely meeting

‍

Our path crossed with Mike's as we waited by the side of the road in a small Australian village. We were trying to get to Rockhampton, 330 kilometres away, and Mike was going there the next morning. With spontaneous generosity, he offered to spend the evening at his friend's house, where he had just bought a farm, and to drive us to Rockhampton at sunrise. We had just met him, but Mike inspired confidence. We agreed! We spent a memorable evening with Mike and his friends, lost in the Australian countryside. We slept in a caravan and watched the kangaroos far away.

The next day, on the road to Rockhampton, Mike told us about his youthful adventures hitchhiking in Africa. He talked about Australians, the history of the country, Hilltop Hoods, and even snakebite first aid. 

Mike quickly became the favourite on this hitchhiking adventure. Cultured, funny, full of fascinating anecdotes, his warm and genuine personality will be remembered! And we learnt at the end that Mike was in fact kiwi !

‍

Between our hitchhiking adventure and the hunt for a sailboat in Darwin, our month in Australia was full of emotion. In the end, we regretfully chose to leave the land of the kangaroos by plane.