After crossing the Java Sea, Singapore and Malaysia, we finally arrived in Thailand and set down our bags on the island of Koh Yao Noi.
In eleven days, we've covered more than 3,600 km. The exhaustion of the trip was showing and we decided to recharge our batteries for a few days on the paradise islands of the Andaman Sea. Thailand had finished us off anyway! We traveled the length and breadth of the country at night, sitting on hard, uncomfortable benches: the proof is there!
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All joking aside, this country amazed us with its impressive landscapes, delicious cuisine and rich culture. There are a thousand and one things to do, see and visit in Thailand. We dived into the crystal-clear waters of the Andaman Sea, lounged on the pretty beaches of Koh Phayam and Koh Yao Noi, explored the Khao Sok national park, gazed at the marvelous temples of Bangkok and enjoyed the many cultural activities on offer in Chiang Mai.
We were expecting a very touristy destination, encroaching on its authenticity and charm. While it's true that it's difficult to get off the tourist trail in Thailand and that everything is geared towards tourism, this country leaves no visitor indifferent.
Thailand was a feast for the eyes!
A lovely meeting
On the way to Koh Phayam's main beach, a zero-waste shop caught our eye. Hidden behind it was a restaurant, and what a surprise - it was vegetarian.
The owner shared with us her story and her constant desire to improve the place. Bringing back knowledge of plants and their health benefits from her travels in India and Burma, she creates new recipes, balms, creams and sprays to add to her shop. Koh Phayam is an island close to the Burmese border, and the restaurant's few employees are young Burmese who have fled their country in the midst of civil war. Thanks to the profits from her business, she also supports the Burmese who have remained in their country. So we were able to discover the history of this country and its local specialities, including the delicious tea leaf salad!
This restaurant is undoubtedly the best on the island, and won us over with both its cause and its cuisine. The owner, a very cultured and spiritual woman, has a very big heart. At times, we even forgot to ask for first names during the fascinating conversations!
An unforgettable place
When my father was thinking of joining us in South-East Asia, he said to me: "Why not Thailand, but especially not Bangkok!
Indeed, the capital often has an image of a city that's too noisy, too much of a party, too polluted and too easy-going. So, without any great expectations, we arrived in the city with a reservation for just two nights.
In the end, we fell in love with Bangkok! It was the first time since Wellington that I'd said to myself: "I'd love to live here for a while". We wandered through shady lanes along the river, came across an incredible variety of street food on every corner, met smiling monks eager to show us around their temples, admired temples that were each more brilliant than the last, floating art shops... Nothing like what my father imagined!
It's hard to describe a city and explain why you loved it. Here's a nice quote from Thierry Prado in Les Savoirs Vagabonds:
"It's not easy to get used to the harshness of cities when you're travelling! Mountains and seas are less dangerous. In reality, the city only makes sense when you manage to establish a form of intimacy with it. Otherwise, if you don't get to know it, it's just noise, pollution, anonymity and stress.
Bangkok, I'll be back!
What’s for dinner ?
Thai cuisine is world-renowned for its diversity and richness. Taking a cooking class here is a must! While everyone is familiar with yellow, red and green curries, as well as pad thai, I'm going to try to introduce you to some lesser-known delights.
Khao soi: originating in northern Thailand, this yellow curry is soft, dense and very creamy. With its fresh noodles and fried noodles, it offers a great mix of textures! Unfortunately, the best we tasted was not in northern Thailand but on Koh Phayam, in the above-mentioned famous restaurant.
Mango sticky rice: if there was one dish I couldn't wait to try, it was mango sticky rice! This dessert is made with sticky rice, sweetened coconut milk and, of course, yellow mango (because there are acidic green mangoes). The quality depends mainly on the mango: the more orange and sweet, the better! During the days we spent on Koh Phayam, we got into the habit of picking up our mango sticky rice every morning and eating it on the beach. Yes, we were really enjoying ourselves!
We could have spent a lot more time in Thailand, as it's such a vast country with so much to discover, and it aroused in me a keen interest in its history and religions. Thailand, the only country in South-East Asia never to have been colonized by Europe, is unique in its kind, with architecture and culture that have been passed down through the generations.
join us on our journey!
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