China: this country-continent, this radically different culture that intrigues as much as it frightens. China is not usually the destination that appears at the top of the list. And yet, a trip to China corresponds to the very definition of travel: opening up to others by putting aside your own preconceptions, discovering and facing up to a diametrically opposed culture, being amazed by the extraordinary landscapes on offer, stepping out of your comfort zone and challenging yourself.
Yes, travelling in China means accepting that our culture, our codes, our way of being in society, are not universal. It requires you to make yourself very small, to observe and interact with others without judgement and with curiosity. And it's well worth the effort! You'll discover a rich and fascinating history, welcoming and enthusiastic people, extraordinary and highly varied landscapes, diverse and balanced food, ancestral and deeply-rooted traditions, and a surprising and innovative modernity.
We spent a month in China.
We crossed the country by train, travelling a total of 8,000 kilometres, or 8 times the length of France. We spent many nights on the trains! Chinese trains are very punctual and comfortable, but it's normal to be completely disorientated the first time you have to buy a ticket. To help travellers, we've written a comprehensive guide, "Travelling by train in China", which you can read soon on the GObyAVA website!
During this month, we discovered a desert, mountains, gorges, forest parks and megalopolises, we went from 4200 to 400 metres above sea level, we had a glimpse of Tibetan, Uyghur and Han culture, we tasted flower cakes, dishes spiced to tears, pancakes and lots of instant noodles.
Here's an overview of our best Chinese discoveries:
An unforgettable meeting
For our first nights in China, we stayed in a tent at a campsite that accepted us on Couchsurfing. Arriving at 1am after a whole day's train journey through Laos and then China, we were greeted by Nyu Nyu, who manages the campsite during the owner's holidays. He didn't speak English very well, so all our conversations were on Google Translate. That didn't stop us finding him funny and touching! We had some very interesting conversations about China and his dream of coming to live in Europe.
During our stay, Nyu Nyu invited us for a meal at the campsite, accompanied us on a bike ride around Dali lake and was keen to show us his favourite places and the city's culinary specialities. We were amazed by his generosity and the attentions he showed us.
Thank you Nyu Nyu <3
Whats for dinner?
Chinese cuisine is one of the most varied in the world, and each province and ethnic group has its own specialities. For example, Sichuan is known for its highly seasoned and spicy flavours, while Tibetan cuisine is very rich and includes lots of meat and milk (from yak, for example).
Here are the specialities that stood out for us:
- Yunnan flower cakes: Everywhere in the streets of Dali and Lijiang, you can smell Yunnan flower cakes. These are puff pastry cakes filled with candied rose petals. We love them!
- The dish that accompanied us throughout our trip: Mapo Tofu!
This dish is made from silken tofu cooked in an oily, spicy sauce. Its characteristic flavour is due in particular to the Sichuan pepper, which is spicy and anaesthetic. It wasn't always easy to find protein-packed vegetarian meals in China, but fortunately Mapo Tofu can be found in a good number of Chinese restaurants throughout the country (even though the dish originated in Sichuan).
- The Chinese have their pancakes too! They are usually filled with egg, green onions, sesame seeds and crackers, and then with whatever you choose to add. Fermented soybean paste and chilli sauce are spread inside. The result is a savoury pancake with different textures and flavours. The Chinese eat it as a quick breakfast, and Chinese pancakes can be found in many street stalls. A very economical and delicious meal!
- Our favourite thing about China: the all-you-can-eat Buddhist restaurants. For just three euros, you can eat 100% vegetarian food while sampling a multitude of Chinese specialities. You can also drink as much tea as you like, and sometimes even other traditional drinks such as black plum soup. Disadvantage: you always leave these restaurants with a belly full to bursting...
Our favourite place:
Dunhuang, our final stop in China, is in Gansu province, in north-west China. Once an important stage on the Silk Road, Dunhuang is a gateway to the Gobi Desert and is now famous for, among other things, the Crescent Moon Lake, located in the middle of the desert.
When we arrived at the famous lake, we got a real fright: like everywhere else in China, tourist sites have been transformed into real amusement parks. Huge ticket offices and souvenir shops, concrete roads and pedestrian crossings in the desert, paying activities such as rides on mistreated camels, microlight or 4x4 tours or even surfing on the dunes... As always, the Chinese government has succeeded in disneylandising a natural site that should be preserved...
However, you only have to climb the first dune and look to the horizon to get the impression of being alone in the world, in the middle of the desert. From here, it is possible to walk, with difficulty, over kilometres of dunes without any tourists in the vicinity. And the magical view is well worth the effort. We went back every day, in broad daylight, at sunrise and sunset, to watch all the different shades of light fall on the dunes. A truly extraordinary place. We'll let you judge by the photos!
We thoroughly enjoyed our trip to China, and can't recommend visiting the country enough, if only to overcome our preconceptions, take in the breathtaking scenery, sample Chinese cuisine and discover the rich history of the Chinese dynasties. A month in China is a very short time given the immensity of the country and its many points of interest. We hope to return to discover the Chinese coast and islands, the big megalopolises like Beijing and Shanghai, southern China with its rice paddies and karst peaks, etc.
To conclude, and since we're being honest, here's what we liked most and least during our month in China:
What we liked least about China:
- The infrastructure in all the tourist spots, even the nature parks, and - mass tourism in large guided groups
- The price of tourism: even trekking is expensive in China.
- Noise: loud music and TikToks can be heard everywhere. And headphones are not widely used in China... The relationship with noise and volume is the cultural difference that made the biggest impression on us.
- Queuing: there are no rules about queuing here! It's survival of the fittest, you push each other and you pass each other at every turn!
What we liked best about China :
- The breathtaking variety of landscapes
- The comfort: everything is organised for the comfort of the Chinese (but perhaps not the Westerners, it's true)
- The Buddhist vegetarian buffets :)
- The trains are punctual, comfortable and well organised
- The price of food and hotels
- The welcome, generosity and enthusiasm of the Chinese. They always seem to be in a good mood!
join us on our journey!
Commentaires